New to sewing? Here are plain-English definitions of the words you'll see in Cairnui patterns.
Pattern Language
RST (right sides together) – Place the two pieces with their printed or "pretty" sides facing each other.
WST (wrong sides together) – Place the two pieces with their back (unprinted) sides facing each other.
Right side (RS) – The front, finished side of the fabric — the side that shows on the outside of your project.
Wrong side (WS) – The back of the fabric — the side that faces inside your project.
Seam allowance (SA) – The distance between the fabric edge and your stitching line. Your pattern will tell you which width to use.
Raw edge – A cut fabric edge that hasn't been finished or sewn.
Mirrored pieces / mirror image – Two pieces cut as reverse copies of each other, like a left and a right.
Cutting list – The list of every piece to cut, with measurements and quantities. Cairnui kits come pre-cut.
Fabric key / fabric letters (A, B, C…) – Labels the pattern uses to tell you which fabric is which.
Fig. (figure) – A numbered photo or diagram that goes with an instruction step.
Grainline – The arrow on a pattern piece showing how to line it up with the fabric's grain.
Notch – A small mark or clip on a pattern edge used to match up pieces.
Place on fold – Lay the pattern piece edge on the fabric fold to cut one symmetrical piece.
WOF (width of fabric) – The full width of fabric from selvage to selvage, usually 42–44" for quilting cotton.
Yardage – How much fabric a project needs, measured in yards.
Fabric & Materials
Lining – The inside layer of a bag that covers the seams and gives a clean, finished look.
Outer / exterior – The fabric on the outside of the project.
Fusible fleece – A soft, padded layer with glue on one side that you iron on to add body and structure.
Faux leather / vinyl – A leather-look fabric that doesn't fray. Use clips instead of pins, and don't iron it directly.
Magnetic snap – A two-part closure (male and female halves) that clicks shut with a magnet.
Prongs – The two metal legs on the back of a magnetic snap that go through slits in the fabric and fold flat to lock it in place.
Washer / snap back – The flat metal disc that slides over the snap prongs on the back side.
Reinforcement patch – A small extra piece of fabric or interfacing placed behind hardware to make it stronger.
Interfacing – A material fused or sewn to the back of fabric to make it stiffer. It comes in fusible (iron-on) and sew-in types.
Batting – The fluffy middle layer in quilts and padded projects.
Quilting cotton – A medium-weight, woven 100% cotton fabric. It's easy to sew and great for beginners.
Canvas / duck cloth – A heavy, sturdy woven cotton, often used for bags.
Fat quarter – A pre-cut piece of fabric about 18" x 22".
Selvage – The tightly woven, finished edges along the length of the fabric that don't fray.
Grain (straight grain / crosswise grain) – The direction of threads in a woven fabric. Straight grain runs parallel to the selvage.
Bias – The diagonal direction across fabric (45°), which stretches the most.
Bias tape / binding – Fabric strips used to wrap and finish raw edges.
Webbing – A strong woven strap material used for bag handles.
Zipper – A closure with interlocking teeth, opened and closed by a pull tab.
D-ring / O-ring / swivel clasp – Metal bag hardware used to attach straps.
Rivet – A two-part metal fastener hammered through layers to reinforce stress points.
Elastic – A stretchy band used in waistbands and casings.
Tools
Clips (Wonder Clips) – Small plastic clamps that hold layers together without pins. Best for thick layers and faux leather.
Pins – Straight pins used to hold fabric in place before sewing.
Iron / press cloth – A press cloth is a thin cloth placed between the iron and the fabric to protect it.
Seam roller – A small rolling tool that flattens seams without heat. Great for faux leather.
Marking tool (chalk, fabric pen) – Used to mark lines and placement points. The marks wash out or brush off.
Seam ripper – A small tool for removing stitches when something needs to be redone.
Wonder Tape / basting tape – Double-sided tape that holds pieces in place while you sew, then washes away.
Leather/denim needle – A strong, sharp machine needle for thick or dense fabrics. Use size 90/14–100/16 for faux leather.
Walking foot / Teflon foot – Presser feet that help thick or sticky fabrics feed evenly without slipping or sticking.
Presser foot – The part of the machine that holds fabric flat against the feed dogs while you sew.
Feed dogs – The small metal teeth under the presser foot that pull fabric through the machine.
Bobbin – The small spool of thread under the needle plate that forms the bottom of each stitch.
Throat plate / needle plate – The metal plate under the needle, often marked with seam-allowance guides.
Thread tension – How tightly the machine pulls the thread. Balanced tension gives even stitches on both sides.
Rotary cutter & cutting mat – A round-blade cutter used with a self-healing mat for straight, accurate cuts.
Fabric shears – Sharp scissors reserved only for fabric.
Pinking shears – Scissors with zigzag blades that cut an edge that resists fraying.
Point turner – A tool for gently pushing out corners after turning a piece right side out.
Zipper foot – A narrow presser foot that lets you stitch close to a zipper.
Serger / overlocker – A machine that trims and wraps raw edges with thread in one step.
Techniques & Stitches
Backstitch (backtack) – Sew a few stitches in reverse at the start and end of a seam to lock the threads.
Baste – Sew long, temporary stitches inside the seam allowance (about 1/8") to hold layers in place.
Topstitch – A visible line of stitching on the right side, close to an edge or seam, for a neat finish and added strength.
Edge-stitch – Topstitching very close to the edge, about 1/16"–1/8".
Press – Lift and set the iron down to flatten fabric or seams. This is different from ironing, which slides back and forth.
Finger press – Flatten a fold or seam by running your finger along it firmly, with no iron.
Press seam open / to one side – Open the seam allowances flat in opposite directions, or press both to the same side.
Nest seams – Press seam allowances in opposite directions so seams lock together neatly when matched.
Boxed corners – A technique that cuts or folds bag corners to create a flat bottom and give the bag depth.
Turning gap / opening – An unsewn section left in a seam so you can turn the project right side out.
Turn right side out – Pull the project through the turning gap so the right sides face outward.
Close the gap – Sew the turning gap shut, by machine edge-stitching or by hand with a ladder stitch.
Sandwich – Layer pieces between other layers (like handles between the outer bag and lining) before sewing them together.
Mark center / placement marks – Small marks showing exactly where a handle, snap or tab should go.
Fold lengthwise – Fold a strip in half the long way, matching the long edges.
Stitch-in-place dividers – Lines of stitching through a pocket and the bag body that divide the pocket into sections.
Ladder stitch / slip stitch – A hand stitch that closes an opening almost invisibly.
Whipstitch – A simple hand stitch that wraps over an edge.
Straight stitch – The basic forward machine stitch.
Zigzag stitch – A side-to-side machine stitch used to finish raw edges or sew stretch fabric.
Stitch length – How long each stitch is, in mm. Use longer stitches for basting, topstitching and thick fabrics.
Staystitch – A line of stitching inside the seam allowance that keeps curved edges from stretching.
Understitch – Stitching the seam allowance to the lining or facing so it rolls to the inside and stays hidden.
Clip curves / notch curves – Small cuts in the seam allowance of curved seams so they lie flat when turned.
Grade seams – Trimming seam-allowance layers to different widths to reduce bulk.
Trim corners – Cutting the seam allowance diagonally at a corner so it turns out crisp.
Bar tack – A short, dense zigzag that reinforces stress points like handle ends.
Box stitch (box-X) – A square with an X stitched inside, used to secure straps.
Hem – Folding and stitching a raw edge to finish it.
Gather – Pulling up long stitches to bunch fabric into soft folds.
Pleat – A fold of fabric stitched or pressed in place.
Casing – A fabric channel that holds elastic or a drawstring.
Gusset – An extra panel sewn into the sides or bottom to add depth.
Facing – A fabric piece that finishes an edge on the inside, like a neckline or bag top.
Piping – A fabric-covered cord sewn into a seam as a decorative trim.
Appliqué – Sewing a fabric shape onto another fabric as decoration.
Edge paint – A paint used to seal and finish raw edges of leather or faux leather. An optional finish.
Can't find a word? Email support@cairnui.com and we'll add it.